Over the Pyrenees

Our Camino started in earnest this morning. Immediately starting with the toughest stage was daunting. But we have done it! 🌄🥾

Our overnight stay was uneventful other than finding ourselves locked in the bar and the owners had left the premises. Fortunately a bit of ferreting found a key so we didn’t have to drown our sorrows.

As soon as we left St Jean our route was up hill and remained going ever upwards for the next 20 km. The forecast had been for heavy rain but it turned out to be the ideal day for mountain walking. It was cool and misty which made for pleasant walking conditions. We met Janet and Brian again from yesterday’s train trip. All was going well and we arrived at the Refuge Orisson in good form only for another pilgrim to inadvertently tip cold water down Beryl’s back.

The scenery became more rugged as we ascended giving us beautiful views of where we had come from. It’s amazing to think how the Iberian peninsula pushing into Europe has caused this folding of the Earth’s surface. I’ve been reading An Immense World by Ed Yong who looks at how different animals perceive the same world. We think we see the world as it is but if we could see over thousands of years we’d see this landscape buckling quickly under enormous forces.

Most of the route was along asphalt road. Up above 1,200 metres we started walking off road. It was reminiscent of our preparatory walks in the Surrey Hills with the mud and beech trees. Not that there are any beech woods high up in any British mountains. A sign that we are much further south.

Eventually we arrived at 1,440 metres and we were in Spain. No border to be seen of course. Two years ago in May 2021 I was lying in a hospital bed with a replacement hip after an accident. I dreamt of the high hills. It is wonderful to be back.

And so down the other side and gradually we caught sight of our destination as we came out of the mist. It is very green Spain up here.

Roncesvalles translates as the valley of thorns. It is reputedly the place where Charlemagne heard the sound of Roland’s horn. This event was celebrated in an epic poem as the epitome of chivalry. More on Roland tomorrow.

We are pleased to have enjoyed this toughest stage. There is a deep sense of the wonder of our world and our privilege to be walking through it.