In Pamplona

We’ve enjoyed a rest day in Pamplona to  wander around never having been here before.

Pamplona centre is full of narrow streets with tall houses. All the centre is largely traffic free. The Camino guide books all talk about the heat, not 12° at noon. Shorts and sandals weather it is not.

We visited San Saturnino church and Saint Maria la Real Cathedral. From my Baptist background the iconography is far from restrained.  I find myself much moved though by the central representations of the Madonna and child. There is a strong feeling to venerate the Mother of God despite my loss of faith as I’ve moved through life. My grandfather, with Strict Baptist roots, must be turning in his grave at these thoughts.

In a very different challenge to my worldview we visited the bullring. Ernest Hemingway wrote his first novel, The Sun also Rises, in large part about the bull running in Pamplona at the feast of San Fermín. It was an experience just to walk the same streets as the run on the 6th of July.

The bullring brought strong emotions. There is a strong distaste about the violence to the bulls but interesting to see this aspect of Spanish culture. Standing in the middle of the ring gave a curious strong acoustic response to a small shout. The atmosphere on the day must be overwhelming. This (mis)use of animals doesn’t seem right but then I’m not a vegan either.

On to visit Café Iruña in the main Plaza del Castillo where Hemingway enjoyed company. An afternoon whiled away with wine and tapas was very pleasant.

It has been a thought provoking day whilst allowing the body to recover. On with the Way tomorrow.