Day 8 – El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de la Malas

We had 19 km to walk today which is relatively short and mostly downhill so I decided to give it a go whilst still feeling a bit under the weather. Fortunately it all went well.

As we left El Burgo Ranero we admired the storks on the church tower and were surrounded by swallows, swifts and housemartins with their beautiful flight patterns. It was lovely to see so many birds.

Our walk was along a minor road all the way which was very quiet. London plane trees platanus x hispanica lining the path most of the way along which would provide much needed shade in the summer.

To the north of us we could see across the flat fields the Picos de Europa mountains. To the far west we could see the Galician mountains with what looks like snow on the top but they are at least 100 km away. The land usage is slowly changing from solely cereal crops, mainly wheat, to include sunflowers. As this is dry upland there are plenty of irrigation systems including large canal systems.

Alongside a small aerodrome there were a profusion of purple orchids with a few white orchids which were all rather splendid.

As we neared our destination we saw cattle grazing peacefully in large enclosed irrigated pasture land. We’ve seen very little livestock in fields. I fear such pampered bulls are destined for only one venue.

We arrived in Mansilla in reasonable time. This town was important as the joining place of the Camino Francés and the Camino Liébana which starts on the north coast west of Santander. The town still has impressive remains of its 12th century town walls.

Flowing just beyond the town walls is the attractive Río Esla coming down from the Picos.

In the church was a beautiful Madonna. Her cloak was covered with intricate goldwork.

There is much history in this landscape with the Celts, Romans, Visigoths, Muslims having fought and lived sequentially in this area until the reconquest under the Spanish.

We’ve one more stage to do tomorrow to reach León and a second rest day.

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