Day 11 – Villavante to Astorga

It was an easier day today after yesterday’s epic walk. We started out over more flat fields accompanied by the sound of frogs in the irrigation ditches getting all excited about each other. It’s that time of year.

The Puente de Órbigo was an impressive old bridge built upon Roman piers. In previous centuries this river crossing had been important for both pilgrimage routes and transhumance paths taking animals to fresh pasture. The main street in the town across the river was decorated with scarves depicting many saints to accompany us on our way.

After yesterday’s flat straight roads it was a pleasure to be on more varied terrain. The way goes much better with new vistas around each corner.

Our flower of the day growing wild along the roadside was a gorgeous flowering of lavender.

Eventually we had a view over the valley to the cathedral at Astorga and the mountains beyond.

Our route today was straightforward with a few lumps en route to prepare us for the heights to come.

Afternoon explore

The Romans built the first town here which they called Asturias Augusta which has become shortened to Astorga.

We visited the cathedral which had a fabulous high nave and many chapels all the way around. There was rather too much bling for us non-conformists. I was though interested to see again the choir in the middle of the church. The narrative explained that the cathedral worship is based primarily on the sung music rather than eucharist or liturgy. No mention of scripture or the sermon!

Next door to the cathedral was a fantasticly beautiful building designed by Antoni Gaudí at the end of the 19th century to be the bishop’s palace. None of the bishops have stayed there and it is now a museum. We’re not so sure about bishops with grand, no money spared, palaces but it is a stunningly memorable building.

Even the Ayuntamiento or city council building was impressive. All in all Astorga is a great place to visit.

Three more days to go over the mountains.

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