Across the fields of Rioja

We made our way today from Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The vineyards in the red sandstone earth were a delight as was their produce last evening.

A shorter walk of 22 km today but it felt much the same. A bit of residual tiredness I suspect.

Although only a small town nowadays, Nájera was in the 11th and 12th century the place for the enthronement and burial of the kings and queens of Navarre which was the province of Spain we entered over the Pyrenees. The monastery and church were understandably large with a different style but unfortunately we couldn’t visit inside.

Nájera was crammed in between the river and sandstone cliffs. Apparently the name is Arabic and means the place between rocks. It’s interesting how the Arabic influence remains in the names even in the north of Spain.

Layers of red sandstone

There were lovely flowers all along our route today. As we gradually climb higher to around 700 m we are effectively going back a week or two in springtime.

The road wound pleasantly through varying landscape until eventually we spotted Santo Domingo in the distance. The town is named after St Dominic who built footpaths and bridges for pilgrims.

We had a good conversation with a French couple at our morning break. Fascinating how much they appreciated events with our monarchy. A curious contrast with the French presidential system. We shared perspectives on the Camino. They started in Pau and are making their journey in stages.

As we proceed our watches show us the route and elevation as we progress. It helps to keep a sense of moving forward. I download the route each evening for the next day.

Another day completed and we’re still in good form. I’m having to deal with my uncle’s estate on an ongoing basis which does not help with the away from it all feeling. Nonetheless there is relaxation in the routine of the day. We are in the hands of others for accommodation and dining which is just fine. Each day is different. We can’t change the route or the conditions. We take the Way as it is.

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