Last evening we very much enjoyed a visit to the cathedral in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It was a beautiful medieval building which has been updated most sympathetically.



For the first time we saw modern stain glass in an old building which was very effective.

In the crypt there were marvellous, modern mosaics.


Off of the cloisters was a chapter room which had a beautiful ceiling crafted by Muslim artists.

Our walk today was rather less inspiring as it was for long stretches a stoney track alongside a busy main road with many large lorries thundering by. We have climbed 750 metres today with an overall height gain of just over 150 m.

The dip and then ascent into the village of Grañón took us by surprise. We hadn’t realised we had climbed about 1,000 ft in a short distance. No wonder we felt out of breath for our mid-morning break.

Still, there were pleasant scenes to see along the way. We have walked out of Rioja into the province of Castile and León. The vineyards have suddenly given way to cereals, rape and sunflowers.


The villages suddenly look more impoverished with old farm buildings constructed with stone for the ground floor and wood and plaster above.

The churches are always the largest buildings. There are a few grander secular houses as well.


Tomorrow is a long 30 km walk up to over 1,100 metres. We wonder how we’ll get on with tiredness in the legs. Overall we’ve now walked 250 km which is a pleasing amount.