A long day to Atapeurca

It was a long walk today of 31 km and 500 m of ascent. We topped out at 1,160 m. For comparison Yr Wyddfa is 1,085 m and Scafell Pike is 978 m.

It was a bit daunting as we looked up at the ridge we had to get over but fortunately it wasn’t too steep.

As we walked upwards it was like going back into English springtime with cow parsley along the way and then at the top there were bluebells. There were plenty of asphodels which I think are asphodelus albus. The hawthorn or may was still in flower.

On the way down we walked through woods for about 8km. Although easier to walk downhill we didn’t get much feeling of progress as we couldn’t see the landscape beyond. It was curious to see some trees only now at the end of May coming into leaf.

There was a reminder of the Spanish civil war at the top where 300 people were killed and buried by Franco’s soldiers in 1936.

After 12 km we reached San Juan de Ortega, a tiny village with an enormous monastery and a mausoleum. The village of Agés was attractive with buildings done up nicely and some still needing some TLC.

We arrived in Atapeurca soon after 4 and spent the rest of the afternoon recovering before dinner at 7. It was a pleasure to meet up with people who have been on the Way with us over the last few days. An American couple, Mark and Trinny, are pushing on with the full camino to Santiago before returning to Texas. A French couple are finishing this stage of their walking here. They’ve previously walked from Pau. Next stop for them is recuperation on the beach at Biarritz. We’re off tomorrow for one last day of walking to Burgos.

We’ve just been out for an evening constitutional. With a keen north wind it is cold (9°) so we’ve retreated indoors where the central heating is on. Who would have thought Spain was this chilly at the end of May?

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