Onwards from Burgos

In Burgos

Yesterday afternoon we enjoyed a walk around Burgos with which we were much impressed last year. It was good to see the city and cathedral from different angles.

After a fine dining experience last evening we set off this morning a little bleary eyed. The cold wind soon got us going. It was around 5º. The maximum during the walk was 12º but fine for walking and it stayed dry.

The walk to the edge of the city was about 5 km which wasn’t as good as being in the countryside. On the way we passed the University of Burgos law faculty which is housed in an old pilgrims hospital set up by Alfonso VIII and his wife Leonor de Inglaterra who was the daughter of Henry II of England and Eleanor of Acquitaine. Plenty of marriage across the European monarchies.

We eventually arrived in green fields of wheat. After passing under a large road intersection we crossed the delightful Río Arlanzón which flows west. This is very much green Spain.

At Tradajos we were half way on the day’s walk so time for our favourite Spanish walking food – tortilla patatas. It was excellent value all in at €7. Food is much cheaper here.

At Rabé de la Calzadas we stepped into the church. It was rather unassuming outside but a beautiful high ceiling inside and grand altar pieces.

Along the road the buildings had been covered with large murals depicting Biblical scenes. I was particularly struck with the three wise men. It was pleasing to see physics equations in rural life.

At a small chapel we were greeted by a friendly woman who gave us a pilgrim’s blessing. Although the Marian theology is not in my background I was strangely warmed by this experience.

We pressed on up a long slope through green fields until we finished our walk in Hornillos del Camino. Our hotel this evening is in a small village 3 km up the road. It’s not ideal to move from the Way but it’s all worked fine.

It’s been a good first day and great to be back with time to muse and reflect. 23 km completed.