Seven of us were given a lift yesterday to our rural hotel in Isar, just 3 km up the road. We all enjoyed dinner together. With two Canadians, an Australian, an American and three Brits we had a good time conversing with each other. This was presumably more like the convivial experience in the pilgrim hostels or albergues but we definitely prefer the hotel life in general.
This morning we were given a lift back to Hornillos at 8 o’clock. It was a chilly start but as we were immediately walking up hill it wasn’t too bad. Strava says it was 4° to start with and a 16 km/hr headwind. This wasn’t what we expected from Spain but it makes for pleasant walking.
One guide book has a picture of the route in the height of summer. Although not taken from the exact same spot the green picture is of the the same valley as seen by us. We much prefer green and cool.
Our route today took us up onto the Meseta, a flat limestone plateau covered with wheat fields. It was flat all round with occasional water courses forming valleys.
After the initial 120 metres of ascent it was pleasant walking along and down.
Half way along we came to the attractive village of Hontanas where we had a welcome pan con chocolat with our coffee. The church was attractive with meditative music. I am trying to enjoy the emotions without engaging the rational mind.
The walk gently downhill was most pleasant with the ruins of an abandoned village and a 14th century convent.
All along the way there was a profusion of wild flowers along the edges of the fields. A lovely big orchid, lots of poppies, thistles with a variety of colours, geraniums and many others.
At the end of the day, actually around lunchtime, Castrojeriz came into view with a castle on top of the hill, a large church and the village itself.
The church of Nuestro Señora del Manzano – Our Lady of the Apple Tree – was well worth visiting. The choir stalls were again in the centre of the church not before the altar as would be English custom. The reredos were on a grand scale. I particularly enjoyed the fine statute of St James as a pilgrim decorated with scallop shells.
Our 21 km walk went easily today. It’s been good to ease ourselves in this way. Four more walking days before our rest day in Sahagún.
Julian and Beryl's camino 