We have arrived back in Burgos to start the second stage of our Camino Francés. In 2023 we walked from St Jean Pied de Port in France to Burgos, a distance of around 300 km. This year we recommence our Camino from Burgos with a further 300 km  in prospect. In 2025 we plan to continue on to Santiago de Compastella and then to Cabo Finisterre, the western most point of Spain looking over the Atlantic.

We left Woking on Sunday afternoon to go to Portsmouth. Normally there is a fast train through Guildford and Haslemere but this was closed due to engineering works. The alternative is to go via Eastleigh which requires no changes but is slower. What would normally be a journey of two hours took three due to a broken down train. At least we’ll get most of our fare back.

After the ignominy of being foot passengers, full body search and penknife confiscation which doesn’t happen to people in cars, we boarded the ferry to Bilbao. This part of the journey took two nights and a day which was a relaxing start to our travels overseas. The sea was a bit rough so Julian was most grateful for acupuncture wrist straps which amazingly worked a treat. I’ve no idea how these work but they do seem to do the trick.

At Bilbao we took a taxi to the Intermodal station which was familiar ground from last year. A bus then took us straight to Burgos arriving here just before noon.

I’ve been learning Spanish in the last year. It was pleasing to be able to put this to use straightaway with an order of dos cafés con leche y una bocadillo con jamón. I feel much more confident about these transactions.

Our hotel for the night is the same as the one we stayed in last year. It felt very familiar. This evening we have a good restaurant booked to set us up for walking. It’s just a pity we need to wait until 20:45 to start eating but that’s Spain for you.

Trip preparation

Having walked through northern Spain last year everything has been much easier to get organised. Our walking gear is much the same and we know how much we need to take.

We’re using the same guide books as before. I’ve transferred the first six days of routes into the Suunto watch app so that we can easily find our way.

Thoughts

Our journey last year was enjoyable and we’ve been eagerly anticipating our continued walk. It will be good to be pilgrims or peregrinos again.

The routine of walking day after day is comforting. It is what we are here to do. The planning is all done. We just set our minds to the road ahead.

It will be a time to reflect on life’s journey over the last years and the time to come. Friends have passed away since last year and we will be mindful of them and their families – Lisa and Sue. We’ve had Justin and Maggie’s wedding to celebrate and plenty of fun times with friends and family.

What will be the spiritual aspect of our thoughts is hard to say. We’re not anticipating deep revelations or understandings but it is likely to enhance a resonance beyond words.

The first few days

We have six days of walking ahead of us before a rest day at Sahagún. The days will be reasonably short at 20 to 25 km or 4 to 5 hours walking. We are entering the Meseta which is a high plateau of around 800 m elevation. There are no large hills so it will be an easier start compared to last year’s climb over the Pyrenees on day one.

The weather is forecast to be showery most days at around 15º which will be just fine for walking. As we came out of the bus station today it was distinctly chilly but the sun is noticeably brighter.

As we start time seems to slow down and be less pressured. A Salvador Dalí inspired clock is a fitting figure for our renewed pilgrimage.

Buen camino!

Walking plans

We have walked 302 km in the last fortnight. That’s a similar distance between London and Manchester. We’ve walked up to 1,440 metres which is 100 m higher than Ben Nevis. Our total ascent was 5,500 m compared to Everest at 8,300 m.

Our Credenciales have been pleasingly stamped.

May has been a great time to journey through green Spain. It has been cool with beautiful spring flowers to delight the way. There have been plenty of fellow pilgrims but it is not too busy. We will return again at this time of year.

Today we are catching a bus to Bilbao and then fly back to Gatwick.

Our plan is to return next year to walk a further 300 km to Ponferrada which is just beyond León. Then in 2025 we come back again to walk the remaining 200 km to Santiago de Compostela and on to Finisterre, another 100 km.

Reflections

Has this been just a walking holiday or a pilgrimage? It has been both. We’ve enjoyed the walking and the tourist experience of northern Spain. And it has also been a time to reflect on life.

Beryl and I have spent many days walking together. Our relationship was put on to a permanent basis when we agreed to be married during a walking holiday in the Yorkshire Dales in 1980. 43 years later we still very much enjoy each other’s company particularly when exploring on foot together. We are fortunate we can continue to enjoy this aspect of life together.

In the last 18 months my father and uncle both passed away aged 90. It is not to be morbid but to appreciate life whilst we have it and the health to be active. These are precious years that we have left. We want to make the most of them.

We have very much enjoyed the slow, deliberate pace of life. It has been fascinating to see the landscape alter gradually around us. We have seen where will be in two days’ time. Looking back we can see a similar distance in time. It is a curious conflation of time and space.

Travelling like this allows one to appreciate life around us, the birds, trees, flowers, crops. On much longer timescales the geology shows the movement of the earth with layers of sedimentary rocks at varying angles. The sandstones show different deposits over millenia. A few metres can display thousands of years. Again time and distance become almost interchangeable.

The Camino was thought to align with the Milky Way. The two Ways are linked. Not just the Earth but a wider progress.

From a religious perspective I can claim no insights or understanding. I have though come to an appreciation of iconography in the church context. There is something beautiful about the images that transcends the object itself.

We have met people from different countries and had fascinating conversations. We have exchanged Buen Camino many times and it has been heartfelt. The Way is a great leveller. We are all making the same journey. Some are faster, some slower. Some are carrying heavy loads, some the lightest of day packs. But the road is the same. We all get to the same destinations. It rains or shines independent of status, age, gender, wealth.

I was concerned at the start how my replacement hip would stand up to the constant walking. All has been fine even if the muscles got a little tired in this leg. I am most grateful for the medical technology and the skill of the orthopaedic surgeon as well as all the other medical staff who helped me recuperate.

As we look forward we want to maintain this gratitude for the joy of life. To enjoy the company of our family and friends. To appreciate the world around us at small and large scales. To take time to contemplate. To enjoy walking together both literally and metaphorically.

And we will be back in Spain. Hopefully with some more language skills and a better understanding of Spanish history and culture.

¡Hasta pronto!

302 km of walking and we’ve arrived in Burgos at the end of this stage. Today’s walk was shorter at 20 km with an ascent at the start of the day. But with tired legs after yesterday’s epic and it being the fifth day of walking our legs felt decidedly tired.

It was good to see Burgos in the distance from the top of the ridge and then for it gradually to come closer. The route wasn’t very exciting today but we were pleased to be able to walk into Burgos through the riverside park rather than the main road.

After a break we visited the cathedral which was amazing. Unlike many other cathedrals and churches we’ve visited, light poured into the cathedral. Even on a dull day the interior felt light and airy.

There were some old copes with fabulous embroidery. The sign said one of them was 15th century.

We still are having difficulty waiting until 8:30 to dine but it has to be done.

It was a long walk today of 31 km and 500 m of ascent. We topped out at 1,160 m. For comparison Yr Wyddfa is 1,085 m and Scafell Pike is 978 m.

It was a bit daunting as we looked up at the ridge we had to get over but fortunately it wasn’t too steep.

As we walked upwards it was like going back into English springtime with cow parsley along the way and then at the top there were bluebells. There were plenty of asphodels which I think are asphodelus albus. The hawthorn or may was still in flower.

On the way down we walked through woods for about 8km. Although easier to walk downhill we didn’t get much feeling of progress as we couldn’t see the landscape beyond. It was curious to see some trees only now at the end of May coming into leaf.

There was a reminder of the Spanish civil war at the top where 300 people were killed and buried by Franco’s soldiers in 1936.

After 12 km we reached San Juan de Ortega, a tiny village with an enormous monastery and a mausoleum. The village of Agés was attractive with buildings done up nicely and some still needing some TLC.

We arrived in Atapeurca soon after 4 and spent the rest of the afternoon recovering before dinner at 7. It was a pleasure to meet up with people who have been on the Way with us over the last few days. An American couple, Mark and Trinny, are pushing on with the full camino to Santiago before returning to Texas. A French couple are finishing this stage of their walking here. They’ve previously walked from Pau. Next stop for them is recuperation on the beach at Biarritz. We’re off tomorrow for one last day of walking to Burgos.

We’ve just been out for an evening constitutional. With a keen north wind it is cold (9°) so we’ve retreated indoors where the central heating is on. Who would have thought Spain was this chilly at the end of May?

Last evening we very much enjoyed a visit to the cathedral in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. It was a beautiful medieval building which has been updated most sympathetically.

For the first time we saw modern stain glass in an old building which was very effective.

In the crypt there were marvellous, modern mosaics.

Off of the cloisters was a chapter room which had a beautiful ceiling crafted by Muslim artists.

Our walk today was rather less inspiring as it was for long stretches a stoney track alongside a busy main road with many large lorries thundering by. We have climbed 750 metres today with an overall height gain of just over 150 m.

The dip and then ascent into the village of Grañón took us by surprise. We hadn’t realised we had climbed about 1,000 ft in a short distance. No wonder we felt out of breath for our mid-morning break.

Still, there were pleasant scenes to see along the way. We have walked out of Rioja into the province of Castile and León. The vineyards have suddenly given way to cereals, rape and sunflowers.

The villages suddenly look more impoverished with old farm buildings constructed with stone for the ground floor and wood and plaster above.

The churches are always the largest buildings. There are a few grander secular houses as well.

Tomorrow is a long 30 km walk up to over 1,100 metres. We wonder how we’ll get on with tiredness in the legs. Overall we’ve now walked 250 km which is a pleasing amount.

We made our way today from Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The vineyards in the red sandstone earth were a delight as was their produce last evening.

A shorter walk of 22 km today but it felt much the same. A bit of residual tiredness I suspect.

Although only a small town nowadays, Nájera was in the 11th and 12th century the place for the enthronement and burial of the kings and queens of Navarre which was the province of Spain we entered over the Pyrenees. The monastery and church were understandably large with a different style but unfortunately we couldn’t visit inside.

Nájera was crammed in between the river and sandstone cliffs. Apparently the name is Arabic and means the place between rocks. It’s interesting how the Arabic influence remains in the names even in the north of Spain.

There were lovely flowers all along our route today. As we gradually climb higher to around 700 m we are effectively going back a week or two in springtime.

The road wound pleasantly through varying landscape until eventually we spotted Santo Domingo in the distance. The town is named after St Dominic who built footpaths and bridges for pilgrims.

We had a good conversation with a French couple at our morning break. Fascinating how much they appreciated events with our monarchy. A curious contrast with the French presidential system. We shared perspectives on the Camino. They started in Pau and are making their journey in stages.

As we proceed our watches show us the route and elevation as we progress. It helps to keep a sense of moving forward. I download the route each evening for the next day.

Another day completed and we’re still in good form. I’m having to deal with my uncle’s estate on an ongoing basis which does not help with the away from it all feeling. Nonetheless there is relaxation in the routine of the day. We are in the hands of others for accommodation and dining which is just fine. Each day is different. We can’t change the route or the conditions. We take the Way as it is.

Our walk today was the longest so far on this journey at 29 km and included an ascent of 400 m. We are gradually gaining height over the next few days as we skirt the high mountains to the south which go over 2,000 m.

The church in Navarrete was stupendous with an amazing reredos. The interior height of the church was immense. Quite remarkable for a place which is at best a small town.

I had hoped to see more church embroideries but the altar clothes have so far been mostly fairly plain. There was though a display of clerical garments some of which looked old. There was some fine embroidery work to admire.

We are now in the region of Rioja. There are plenty of well tended vineyards but very few trees for shade. We’re again glad that the weather is warm rather than hot and mostly overcast.

There are many flat topped mesas which are curious. I suspect they are formed from hard red sandstone caps with softer ground in between.

Although today was a long walk we are enjoying the slowly changing landscape. The hours of walking are not tedious as the mind relaxes into the journeying. We are improving our energy input with food of some sort each hour which helps us to keep going. The soles of our feet are tender at the end of the day but fortunately no blisters. Liner socks are a wonderful invention. Two walking poles each certainly reduce the load on our feet.

We’ve now walked 166 km in the last seven walking days. It doesn’t look too far on the map but Spain is a large country. We’ve needed the rest day.

We’re now anticipating our next five days to Burgos with a couple of 30 km days. It seems strange we’ll be back in England in a week’s time.

We’re still getting used to Spanish dining times. 8:30 in the evening is the earliest the restaurants open, some wait until 9 pm. Last evening we had a wonderful paella in a fish restaurant. The owner had a great Yorkshire accent. It turned out he was born in Chelsea with a Spanish father and Italian mother who were working in London. Later they moved to Leeds before the whole family repatriated to Spain.

We’ve just had a relaxing time today with a Spanish lunch starting at 14:30. It’s been a pleasure to observe Spanish life with people relaxing at the weekend. We only wish we knew any Spanish other than the most basic words. I’ve started an online app to make some progress with the language before we return next year.

The Camino gives one a different perspective on life. Over lunch we had a long conversation about our life choices with their aspirations and expectations. We could have talked about these things at anytime but we haven’t. Pilgrimage has given us the opportunity to reflect on the past and consider our future.

Our pilgrimage continues. We said goodbye to two French women we’ve seen often on the road who have finished for the time being. We will see who else we meet en route.

Last evening after I had posted yesterday’s blog we visited the parish church which was amazing. The reredos at the front and at the side chapels were monumental. The lantern at the top brought in the light beautifully.

Through a side door were beautiful cloisters. Up on the gallery was a collection of Gregorian chant song books with old musical notation. The old choir stalls in the gallery were well done. There was a wide stone staircase to the gallery with a remarkable stone lion. It was all rather incredible for a small town.

We set off on our long walk today soon after 8 on a cool damping day which was ideal. The scenery was more plain today but had its moments. The flowers were again a pleasure with malva sylvestris, convolvulous, elaeagnus angustifolia and some for which I don’t know the name.

We walked 29 km today with 470 m of ascent and had weary legs.

Our fitness has started to improve. I’m now starting to get back to where I was two years ago before I fell off my bike. That’s pleasing but fatigue has shot up faster so overall form not so good. Just as well we now have a rest day.

As we came into Logroño we passed a sign saying this was a rose for the Camino de Santiago. It is lovely.

Yesterday evening we had an enjoyable after dinner chat with Ingrid and Ian from Australia. They completed the Camino last year in August but found the heat to be most exhausting. So they’re back this year to enjoy a more temperate Camino.

This pilgrimage grows on us too even with being tired. The rhythm of the day becomes all absorbing. Walking along for mile after mile is almost trancelike even as the feet become sore.

Our day timings are set by the time our two suitcases need to be at the hotel reception which is always 8 o’clock. We have enjoyed our daily walks with lighter loads rather than having to carry everything. Breakfast is usually available from 7:00. After this we’re normally on the road about 8:15. Typically we arrive at our destination around 2 pm.

Our route today was through magnificent country with varying views of hills as we climbed up to Villamayor de Monjardin. The scale of these hills is much larger than the south of England with heights up to 900 or 1,000 metres whereas the highest point in the whole of the south of England is Leith Hill at 300 m.

The limestone cliffs we’d seen from a far can be seen on the map above. They did look impressive in the morning sun. One of the joys of walking is the appreciation of the landscape as we slowly walk through.

We spent some time deliberating whether the top of Monjardin was a natural outcrop or had a building on top. As we came closer we could see it was an old castle, Castillo de San Esteban.

The church at Villamayor was simple and austere compared to others we visited. Does this reflect different traditions in Spanish Catholicism? Interestingly the windows are covered with alabaster which gives a dim light. No need to capture all the light possible as in northern Europe.

The second half of our day was through wheat fields along straight white roads. Fortunately the landscape kept changing as we walked through. We’re enjoying the way the route is as it is and we are mere followers of the Way.

The flowers continue to be splendid with large stands of dog roses with a delightful scent. We also saw wild irises and what I think are a form of scabious. The tamarix will soon be in flower but not quite yet. It is great to be here in May to see all these flowers.

We’re getting into the swing of enjoying refreshments at the end of our day’s walk. It’s very pleasant to sit in the plaza with one of us enjoying a beer and the other ice cream.

One more day’s walking before we have a rest day in Logroño. We’re in good form with only one blister between us. Our legs are definitely getting more flexible and we can keep going for longer. 28 km tomorrow so we’ll see how we get on with that. In the distance we can see higher mountains which we’ll need to surmount in the days ahead.